Head to high-rise Shibuya district for full immersion into Tokyo's hustle and bustle. The main crossroads defy logic as hundreds of people simultaneously cross at opposing angles without bumping into each other. Less frenetic is majestic Asakusa Kannon (or Senso-ji) Temple. You can eat like a king for a pittance in Naka-Meguro, or explore Edo-period Tokyo in Yanaka's narrow 17th to 19th-century alleyways.
Background
Start your tour of Tokyo at Tokyo Station. Built in 1914, it is a hub for nationwide subways and bullet trains. Work your way out from here, heading north-east to traditional Tokyo in Asakusa, once home to samurai. Nearby is Tokyo's oldest park, Ueno Park, popular for hanami cherry blossom parties in spring. Travel west for Tokyo's modern side in skyscraper-filled Shinjuku, famous for its shopping and nightlife. Want to stock up on Tokyo fashions? Take the JR Yamanote train line south to tree-lined Omotesando boulevard for designer boutiques, or join Tokyo teenagers in Harajuku district for more cutting-edge looks.
First-time visit
Start your day in Tokyo early with a trip to Tsukiji Fish Market for sushi breakfast amid giant tuna. Stroll past Ginza's 1889-built Kabuki-za theatre, hopping on the subway to Roppongi to see the vast metropolis from Roppongi Hills' 52nd-floor Tokyo City View platform. Further up the same building, see the edgy contemporary art at the Mori Art Museum. You can experience a tea ceremony at the Hotel Okura Tokyo in Akasaka. Finally, head to the knickknack stores of Shibuya, followed by Yoyogi Park, where local teenagers flaunt unique Tokyo fashions on Sundays – look out for lace and Victoriana-clad Gothic Lolitas.
Return visit
Amble past traditional wooden houses, temples and cosy izakaya pubs on the streets of Yanaka, Sendagi and Nezu. You can enjoy a peaceful mid-city respite by the lake in the perfectly proportioned Hama Rikyu Gardens, then visit the Ota Memorial Museumof Art's amazing collection of ukiyo-e woodblock prints, including such to Hokusai masterpieces as The Great Wave off Kanagawa. Take a trip south-west to trendy Daikanyama for funky clothing from its cute boutiques. If you're hungry, walk to Naka-Meguro's backstreets, where gourmet dining awaits.
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