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Lovers, things might get steamy at Azorean spa retreat Octant Furnas… And we don’t mean what happens when the ‘do not disturb’ sign goes up – although that might be part of it. No, we mean smoke billowing from holes in the ground, bubbling thermal pools so mineral rich they run red, and the centuries-in-the-crafting landscape of an ancient volcano that has some life in it yet (don’t worry, it’s still fairly sleepy). It fosters a frisson for running wild on the Azores’ largest island; but when you need to dial down the drama, romantic locally inspired meals, leafy picnics and pineapple-laced cocktails in the garden up the heat, no sweat.
Highlights:
Heavenly hydrotherapy circuit
Trad Azorean cuisine
Lively landscape

Smith extra
A selection of Portuguese delicacies; GoldSmiths also get a session on the flotation bed
In the know
Also need to know:
The hotel has a small market selling bits and bobs of active gear, local delicacies and spa products.Guests with mobility issues may find some of the rough terrain tricky to navigate, but there are some accessible rooms.
Packing tips:
Bring clothing that can take some rough and tumble, shoes tough enough for volcanic hikes and swimwear that can take the heat. Plus a waterproof camera.
Dress code:
Whatever you wear, finish off with a smoky eye.
Accommodation details
Address:
Avenida Dr. Manuel de Arriaga, Furnas, 9675-022
Furnas
Portugal
Check-in Details:
Normal Check-in: 15:00
Normal Check-out: 12:00
Location:
0.5 mi / 0.8 km from city centre
General facilities
- Onsite laundry
- Spa
- Exercise gym
- On-Site parking
- Internet services
- Restaurant
- Pool
- Lounges/bars
- Room service
Dining information
Restaurant:
The cuisine here is very much a product of its environment – after all, the restaurant is called À Terra, and in a land where the earth belches out smoke from the ground, that's an intriguing prospect indeed. A wood-fired oven, josper grill and boiler bring the requisite smokiness to dishes, largely steaks (there are more cows than people on the island) and freshly caught fish, but also pizzas, breads, veggies and lasagna. And food is culturally influenced too; this is hearty rustic fare of the ‘gather round a steaming pot’ sort. The signature stew has beef breast, sausage from Santa Maria island made to a traditional recipe, yams and sweet potatoes and Bio Kairos vegetables. It’s a bear hug in a bowl, as is the fish stew with shrimp, saffron and mint; vegetarian chilli; and the creamed sweet potato with chorizo chips. Save space for the apple fritters or platter of fine local cheeses. You can also dine in the Lounge which has a more alfresco feel than the jazzily painted dining room. And if you’d like an even leafier setting, the kitchen will pack a hamper with pork-belly flatbreads, octopus salad, croquettes, filled croissants, fresh bread and Ilha cheese, cakes, pineapple juice, wine and more (from €15 a person).
Top Table:
The hotel’s interiors pay homage to the island’s natural beauty with accent walls showing off waterfalls and calderas, plant pots aplenty and natural colourways – but the real thing is all around you in the gardens, so take a seat out there.
Last Orders:
Breakfast runs from 7.30am till 11am, lunch from 12.30pm till 6pm and dinner from 7pm till 10pm. The bars both serve till 11.30pm.
Room Service:
You can dine in-room round the clock.
Hotel Bar:
The greenhouse-style lounge invites the outdoors in, with open walls, hanging greenery, a glazed ceiling and warm woods – including a stash of firewood behind the bar. It’s a laidback spot with tufted leather sofas and bistro-style seating (you can dine out here if you wish), and drinks tend towards the fruity, even the beers, which are mixed with tropical juices. Order a pitcher of sangria (they have all colours), or try a pineapple caipirinha – São Miguel is the only place in the world where the fruit’s grown in greenhouses, and there are 6,000 plantations, so it’s kind of a big deal. Or try the local pineapple liqueur, Portuguese almond liqueur Amarguinha, the hotel’s signature drink with peach and apple, or a slug of potent aguardiente.
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