Curious things to do in Rome
Author: Jools Stone
Rome, dubbed the ‘Eternal City’, has no shortage of top tier attractions to entice visitors of course, but sometimes it’s those quirkier finds that capture the imagination the most. These range from architectural treasures to ancient churches, and from stunning public places to secret doorways, so you never know what you might discover.
1. Piazza Navona
If you liked the Trevi Fountain, you’ll love the Piazza Navona.
Rome’s showcase square is resplendent with extravagant fountains, elegant Baroque palaces and a lively cast of street artists. Look out for the Chiesa di Sant’Agnese in Agone: with its theatrical facade and imposing domed interior, it’s a fine setting for regular classical music performances. You should also check out the Palazzo Pamphilj, built between 1644 and 1650 by Borromini and Girolamo Rainaldi. Book a guided tour to witness the impressive frescos by Pietro da Cortona. Another landmark on the square is the Stadio di Domiziano, an ancient 30,000 seated stadium whose underground remains can be accessed through Via di Tor Sanguigna.
Top tip: Visit the square early in the day before the crowds arrive, or in the evening when the fountains are illuminated.
2. Jesuit Church of St Ignatius of Loyola
If you enjoyed the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel check out the Jesuit Church of St Ignatius of Loyola.
Built in the 17th Century by Jesuit architect Giovanni Tristano this church was initially supposed to have an impressive dome. The money to construct it never materialised though, so its architects hit upon a cunning way to recreate it from within. On the ceiling lies a life-size optical illusion of a dome, painted by Andrea Pozzo, which still fools the eye today.
A second illusion graces the church’s barrel-vaulted ceiling. This features a vast painting depicting the life and works of Saint Ignatius, which seems to lift and expand the building skyward, using forced perspective to move the figures up into the heights. The technique is known as quadratura .
Top tip: The best way to view the illusion is to keep your eyes low until you reach the circular marble marker that indicates the ideal vantage point for taking in the ‘dome’. A second marker on the floor indicates the ideal viewing spot for the rest of the ceiling.
3. Santa Maria della Concezione Crypt
If you’re a fan of the Colosseum, take in the Santa Maria della Concezione Crypt.
Here the ossified skeletons of over 4,000 Capuchin friars who died between 1528 and 1870 are still found lying, hanging and generally adorning the crypt.
When Capuchin monks first moved to the church in 1631 they were ordered by Cardinal Antonio Barberini to gather up the remains of their bredren and have them buried here. The friars went further however and decorated the crypt’s walls with their predecessors’ bones to remind themselves of their mortality.
Top tip: Look out for one of the crypt’s most macabre highlights – a skeleton enveloped in an oval of bones holding a scythe and scales tools made entirely out of bones.
4. The Galleria Sciarra
If you enjoyed the Pantheon, you might enjoy an art nouveau gem.
Steps away from the well-trodden Via del Corso lies a little-visited courtyard decked out in the beautiful hallmarks of the art nouveau movement. The Galleria Sciarra is a veritable visual feast done out in stunning frescos and brilliant colours.
The opulent courtyard was built in the late 19th Century for the wealthy Sciarra family. It was originally meant to be a shopping mall and features stunning artwork by Giuseppe Cellini celebrating women down the ages.
Top tip: It’s best to visit in the early evening when the sunlight spilling in via the glass roof floods the courtyard, illuminating the frescos and bathing the entire place with golden tones.
5. The Porta Alchemica
If you’re a fan of the Spanish Steps, you’ll love this ‘hidden’ doorway.
Tucked away in a park near Piazza Vittorio stands an intriguing doorway in the remains of a crumbling villa once used by alchemists in the 17th Century. The Porta Alchemica is the only surviving door to the villa of early alchemist Massimiliano Palombara and once witnessed numerous notable visitors including Christina, the Queen Regent of Sweden, Rene Descartes and Athanasius Kircher.
Top tip: Look out for the emblem on the pediment of the door which is decorated with two overlapping triangles and a Latin inscription.
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