Overview

Perfectly located Canal House hotel packs contemporary chiaroscuro decor into a brace of 17th-century merchant's houses, channeling the dramatic light, natural textures and rich fabrics of the Dutch Old Masters. Bedrooms are seductive, the breakfasts are delicious, and the courtyard garden's a romantic hideaway. You don't have to go far to see great art: not only is the Museum District a short tram ride away, the hotel has its own neck-craning array of antique ceiling mouldings, cabinets of curiosity, contemporary design and modern art.

Highlights:

  • Fantastic location near the boutique-lined Nine Streets quarter

  • Moody, glamorous decor, period features and courtyard garden

  • Characterful rooms with canal or garden views

Smith extra

A pampering full-size bath product by Green & Spring

In the know

Also need to know:

In-room spa and beauty treatments can be arranged, and personal trainers can be booked via reception, where you'll also find jogging maps, tram tickets and other helpful extras. If you're feeling sociable, an extra bed for an adult guest can be added to larger rooms for €75 a night.

Packing tips:

Pack light, and hit the boutiques in the nearby Nine Streets to pad out your wardrobe with cutting-edge designer or upcycled vintage pieces. Save stilettos for the bedroom: the Dam is all about Converse, cobbles and canalside walks.

Dress code:

Fashion-savvy APC, Opening Ceremony, Dagmar and Rodebjer.

Mr and Mrs Smith reviews

As Mrs Smith and I approach the huge and age-blackened oak doors of Canal House on Amsterdam’s pretty waterway the Keizersgracht, we’re not sure what to expect. After all, the things that usually lurk behind such forbidding portals are liable to go bump in the night. Bracing ourselves for an encounter with one of Dr Frankenstein’s shuffling henchmen, we are relieved when welcomed by the altogether friendlier figure of the hotel’s concierge. After checking us into the hip 23-room hideaway, he leads us through the former 17th-century merchant’s house – all high ceilings, tastefully faded repros of Dutch Golden Age paintings, swathes of silk and velvet, and Gothic-luxe design touches – and up to our suite.

On the way, we glimpse a man who I will describe here as only an Incredibly Famous Rock Star (I'm not a writer given to, um, careless whispers). He sits contentedly sipping coffee the Great Room, a majestic space that functions as Canal House’s all-day restaurant and chill-out spot for guests, who can while away the hours leafing through an impressive range of kooky, and occasionally kinky, art, photography and design books, or simply staring (as the IFRS did) out of the windows into the large, beautifully tended back garden – a rarity in built-up central Amsterdam. Mrs Smith shoots me a look that seems to say ‘Well, if he is staying here this place must be pretty good’. She’s right: with its air of discreet decadence, Canal House is the kind of hotel that can make anybody feel like a rock star for a night or two.

As we enter our room on the hotel’s top floor, we almost have to squint to see the bed. Not, of course, because of its Lilliputian dimensions (it is vast and deeply comfortable), but because the room is so very long that it takes a moment to determine quite where it ends. Before we finally flop down on marshmallow-soft duvet, we pass a lounge area with a sofa and large LCD screen, a purple-tiled ‘wet space’ with a freestanding bathtub big enough for two and a shower cubicle that could take easily twice that number, a dressing table set with all manner of Green & Spring products (approving murmurs, here, from Mrs S.), and an entertainment station complete with board games, copies of GQ, Vogue, and Wallpaper*, and another even bigger LCD screen and Blu-ray player, on which we later watch one of the comfortingly trashy Hollywood movies available to hire, free of charge, at the front desk.

When we finally slot an iPod into the bedside dock and crank up – who could resist? – the IFRS's biggest hit, we feel pleasantly exhausted. Time to pour a glass of something great from the minibar, see just how bubbly a bath we can run using the complimentary unguents, and marvel at the huge and glossy Nicole Marnati photograph above the bed, in which a Nicki Minaj look-a-like poses in a gold Marcel Wanders gown, a cross between an 18th-century princess and a dayglo hip-hop queen. When the Canal House's design team said that their aim is to combine influences from the building's past with a 21st-century aesthetic, they weren't messing around.

Toes and fingers wrinkled from a long soak, and having watched dusk settle over the city’s gabled rooftops from our canal side window, we repair to the hotel’s bar. It’s a space that marries mercantile grandeur and darkly romantic styling with an atmosphere that a Dutch person might describe as gezellig – an untranslatable word that connotes something close to cosiness. Mrs Smith orders an excellent cucumber martini, while I plump for a ‘Green and Spring’ – not a cocktail of the Canal House’s excellent bath products but rather an enticing mixture of Grey Goose vodka, orgeat syrup, lemon juice and muddled pear. Mrs Smith takes a sip from my glass, and pronounces that it tastes like ‘a really delicious pond’. Our tipples are just what we need to put us in the mood for a night out with friends in Amsterdam’s hip de Pijp district, home to the city’s thriving young art scene. We return late, all too glad to sink into the great cloud of our bed and await another crisply beautiful Amsterdam winter morning.

After breakfasting in the Great Room on perfectly poached eggs, fresh fruit, and creamy jong kaas (young cheese), we hire bicycles from the nearby Bike City, and set out to explore the surrounding streets. Cruising along the canals of the Jordaan neighbourhood, home to everything from traditional brown cafes to world-beating design store Moooi, we get to wondering whether the IFRS is doing the same. Amsterdam, after all, is one of the world’s most famously relaxed cities, where even the spectacle of a pedaling music idol would do little to faze its easygoing inhabitants. Perhaps, though, he was still holed up in the splendid Golden Age meets Third Millennium fantasia of the Canal House. As Mrs Smith points out, when a hotel is this beguiling, why bother stepping out of the door?

Accommodation details

Address:

Keizersgracht 148, Amsterdam, Noord Holland, 1015 CX
Amsterdam
Netherlands

Location:

0.3 mi / 0.4 km from city centre

General facilities

  • Valet parking
  • Internet services
  • Complimentary in-room coffee or tea
  • Room service
  • Lounges/bars
  • Onsite laundry
  • Restaurant

Dining information

Restaurant:

Bridging the two merchant's houses is the Great Room, a decadent but intimate space looking out across the garden behind the hotel. A generous buffet breakfast is served here, and a light menu of snacks (local meats and cheeses, croquettes, smoked salmon, toasties, spring rolls and some sweet nibbles, too) is served in the Great Room, lounge and in-room in the afternoon, to accompany drinks.

Top Table:

Get comfortable on a leather banquette in the lounge for aperitifs or a coffee with the Sunday papers. In the Great Room, get a window table for two; when the frescoed, four-seat Summer House is open, it will be an über-romantic spot for private dining.

Last Orders:

The bar-slash-reception desk serves until the last guest has headed to bed. Breakfast is served in the Great Room between 7am and 11am.

Room Service:

Have breakfast brought to your room, or order light snacks after 11am.

Hotel Bar:

With brushed steel stools lined up around theatrically lit counters and a separate lounge area, the Bar at Canal House is atmospheric and attractive. Multiple mirrors, matt black walls and gilded Napoleonic plasterwork set the scene for seduction. Sip wine, sink highballs or sup cold draught beer.

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