A slick, contemporary take on the 'bedrooms plus wine bar and bistro' formula, Malmaison Cheltenham​ manages to magic all mod cons into one smart heritage-renovation package, including a well-stocked lounge cum library, spa space, moody bar and Modern British restaurant.


  • Contemporary interiors, with art curated by Central St Martins and Matthew Hilton furniture

  • Delicious Modern British food, tempting wine list and a well-crafted cocktails in the bar

  • Fantastic location in Cheltenham’s stylish Montpellier quarter

Smith extra

A £10 voucher to spend in the hotel restaurant

In the know

Also need to know:

Pets welcome by prior arrangement. Malmaison Cheltenham has three wheelchair-accessible rooms. Smoking is only permitted outside on the terrace. Both the spa and the restaurant can be busy, so book treatments/dinner before arrival if you can.The spa has four treatment rooms, two with curvilinear, oak-lined walls. Treatments feature Ren’s divine essential-oil blends and are performed by an experienced team of therapists.

Packing tips:

Leave plenty of room in your bags for shopping. Bring swimwear if you fancy a splash in the Cheltenham Ladies College pool.

Dress code:

Come as you are (although Cheltenham does like to dress up).

Mr and Mrs Smith reviews

My chauffeuse eases the Land Rover into the underground car park. The car radio is playing a rather evocative number from those New Romantic oldies, Duran Duran ‘And the droning engine throbs in time with your beating heart.’ I think the song is called ‘The Chauffeur’, and I vaguely recall a video with naughty goings-on in a basement. How appropriate – I think it is going to be a good weekend.

Of course the chauffeuse is Mrs Smith. We have come to Cheltenham to sample the cultural, aesthetic and refreshment delights of the old spa town. And we are staying in the groovy new Montpellier Chapter hotel. We push open the magnificently restored bronze front door and enter the lobby. It is so fashionable that there is no check-in desk, merely a giant lump of wood with a laptop, and a very friendly greeter. You don’t even show your credit card – just mention your name and they give you a key. Hospitality research shows that guests judge a stay largely by first impressions: obviously Swire, owners of the nascent Chapter hotel chain, have taken this lesson to heart. Who has not despaired when arriving at big-branded hotels to see queues to register and queues at the lifts? Give me the small, personal offering every time.

The interior is full of high ceilings, original parquet floors, luxurious thick carpets and heavy wooden doors. The bedrooms are very hi-tech: an iPhone in each with an app providing all the necessary information. We dump our luggage and head down to the bar for an aperitif. The chauffeuse remarks on the furniture: it is all genuine designer kit, like De La Espada and B&B Italia. She is impressed. I am more taken with the wonderfully reviving Bellini I’ve ordered. The fact that the waiter offered me a choice of three flavours is a symbol of how sophisticated the provinces have become in recent years. And very good news it is too.

The lounge next door has a really excellent library, full of handpicked books carefully chosen under six intellectual categories: adventure; purpose; sense of place; style; perspective; and escape. Any hotel with a thoughtful selection like that gets full marks from me. I browse while my partner organises the evening’s entertainments.

After cocktails, we wander out into the marvellous spring evening. The town must be one of the most elegant in Britain. It is full of sweeping Regency terraces, largely well preserved. Montpellier itself is a convivial district full of wine bars, delicatessens and gracious parks. Opposite our hotel is a blue plaque noting the house as the birthplace of Arthur ‘Bomber’ Harris, who flattened Dresden. ‘Thank goodness, the chap was on our side,’ muses Mrs Smith, ‘Otherwise the Georgian beauty of places like Cheltenham might not exist.’

We dine in a splendid restaurant called Daffodil, located in a converted art deco cinema in a happening section of the town called the Suffolks. The meal and service are first rate. Afterwards we sample some of the Cheltenham Jazz Festival, which takes place over the May bank holiday. It uses venues all over town, but its heart is a series of marquees in the Imperial Gardens, off the Promenade, Cheltenham’s main drag. We miss Jamie Cullum and Hugh Laurie, but we catch some cool sax music and I buy a Nina Simone CD.

It seems Cheltenham is festival mad. In June, they have the highly regarded Science Festival, in July, a classical music festival, and in October, a notable literature festival. All strike me as civilised ways to spend a day or two, listening to great talent perform in various ways. And for gamblers and turf aficionados, there is the Gold Cup in March, the grandest event in jump racing’s calendar. So a lot to do, apart from simply enjoying the smart shops, pubs and Cotswold countryside.

A solid breakfast in the hotel’s conservatory starts our next day, and then we stroll up the road to Cheltenham Ladies College. Guests at the Chapter enjoy temporary membership of the sports club there, so we indulge in a bracing swim in the 25 metre pool, but decide against a game of badminton. Bizarrely the hotel spa is shut over the bank holiday, so I’m afraid to report we cannot sample its delights.

For lunch, we zip off to Cowley Manor, a fabulous stately home (and another Mr & Mrs Smith hotel), about 15 minutes from Cheltenham. There we enjoy a terrific brunch and walk the magnificent gardens in the hazy afternoon sun. Rather a better place for families than the Montpellier Chapter, but with fewer of the immediate amusements on offer in central Cheltenham.

That evening, we have an early supper in the hotel’s restaurant – outstanding value at £15 for three courses of Modern British. I am discombobulated when a junior minister in the Coalition comes over to say hello: belatedly I remember meeting him when I chaired Channel 4 TV. The food – risotto for her, steak for me – is tasty, the service attentive. Afterwards, Mrs Smith has rhubarb crumble and I plump for sticky toffee pudding. We’re sold.

Later, we undertake a bar crawl, and are impressed by the friendliness of the locals and the quality of the Pimm’s. The weekend has been an undoubted success – Cheltenham and our hotel are both charming, and to be recommended to anyone who wants a romantic break. I can see why King George III had fun here (before he went mad) back when he made the place famous as a resort town in the late 18th century. In my favourite cartoon by James Gillray, ‘A voluptuary under the horrors of digestion’, his son, George IV-to-be is surrounded by the finer things, his tummy bulging from overindulgence. Indeed, the notorious bon vivant Prince Regent, could have been depicted in this very hotel.

Accommodation details


Bayshill Road, Montpellier, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 3AS, United Kingdom
United Kingdom


0.4 mi / 0.7 km from city centre

General facilities

  • Spa
  • Internet services
  • On-Site parking
  • Complimentary in-room coffee or tea
  • Room service
  • Lounges/bars
  • Onsite laundry
  • Restaurant

Dining information


The brasserie delivers seasonal Modern British fare under a soaring barrel-vaulted ceiling; we loved the pork wrapped in bacon, served with belly pork, crackling to die for, potato puree and apple sauce. The interactive iPad wine list is fun way to pick your plonk – but the sommelier can help you choose more challenging matches.

Top Table:

For dinner, a see-and-be-seen table in the buzzy main dining room will give you a glimpse of the kitchen; the Garden Room with its view of the courtyard's uplit boxwood tree is more romantic. When the sun shines, you can't beat the terrace.

Last Orders:

The cocktails are shaken until 1am; last orders in the restaurant are at 10.30pm.

Room Service:

Anything from a hearty breakfast to a cleansing broth can be ordered round the clock; most offerings are taken from the more-please bar menu.

Hotel Bar:

Cocktails are taken seriously in the mirror-backed, sofa-lined bar: staff had serious mixology training to tackle the spirited selection of independent-label liquors. Look out for Chase vodka, distilled nearby in Hereford. There's also an all-day menu of grown-up comfort food, including quirky chilli, fine pies and excellent pizzas.


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