Dicas para um fim de semana em Lisboa

On arrival in Lisbon, check straight into Altis Avenida. Modernism is alive and well at this boutique hotel, which was built in the forties and still has its original façade. Rooms are sleek and stylish, and the downstairs lobby has an abundance of velvet sofas. Head up to the rooftop restaurant for wonderful panoramic views. As you’ll soon realise, Lisbon is a hilly city – and every rooftop offers a complex, multi-layered view of hilltop castles, hidden churches and twisting alleyways. Sit here, look down, and plan where to go next.

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If you fancy doing a walking tour to get your bearings, then the Experience Lisbon Walk starts just two minutes from your hotel, at Restauradores Square.

If you’re going solo, take a fifteen-minute stroll up the avenue to breakfast: stop for coffee and a light bite at Delidelux, a great local deli. Then, head straight from the hotel down into Bairro Alto. This historic, bohemian district of Lisbon is all cobbles, and full of stores, bars and restaurants. It’s beautiful by day, but it really comes alive when the sun goes down.

Potter around the luxury shops on Rua do Norte, then when you’re feeling peckish, make your way to the Time Out Market for a midday snack. This gourmet food court opened in May 2014 and has been a hit ever since for both locals and visitors. In the grand undercover market hall, over 30 kiosks sell all sorts of ready-to-eat regional specialities; and with plenty of tables and benches, it’s the ideal spot for either a light snack or meal. For a little something that’s typically Portuguese, try some salted cod fish cakes with a local dry white wine.

Saunter through the streets and along the waterfront, before stopping for lunch. Lisbon is home to Jose Avillez’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Belcanto, but if you can’t get a table or can’t justify spending your cents, make a beeline for Páteo, his more relaxed and better-on-a-budget seafood restaurant in Bairro do Avillez. With beautiful interiors, great wine, and impeccable seafood (the sea bass is a must!), there’s no better spot for lunch in the city. Have your fill, but leave room for his wonderful pasteis de nata millefeuille.

Easily the most charming, picture-perfect part of Lisbon, Alfama is a maze of steep narrow, cobbled streets that wind up the hill from the Tejo estuary to the castle at the top. Of course, you could hop on the number 28 bus all the way – the streets are quite the workout – but you’ll miss the joy of getting lost in the backstreets and stopping to admire the view from Miradouro da Senhora do Monte. Go with a charged camera in hand because there’s no shortage of photo opportunities around here.

At the top of the hill, you’ll find São Jorge, a Moorish Castle that boasts an unmissable view of the city. Join the queue for tickets to enjoy a leisurely, insightful stroll round the grounds and a well-deserved rest, before making your way back down through the winding streets and basking in the sun at one of the bars around the Praça do Comércio.

When you’re ready for dinner, make your way back through Bairro Alto to A Cevicheria. This tiny little place is a hit with the locals and it’s got a no-bookings policy so go early – from around 19:00 onwards – or expect a queue. The best seats in the house are up at the kitchen bar, to watch the chefs lovingly craft each colourful dish. As the name suggests, it’s all about ceviche, and the tasting menu is the best way to try a comprehensive selection of dishes; each one light but packed with flavour and that wonderful tiger’s milk zing.

For Lisbon, the night is still young so if all the walking hasn’t worn you out, head over to Rua Cor-de-Rosa, a street painted bright pink that buzzes with crowds and energy when night falls. Here you can do like the locals and dance until you’ve got no more left.

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Hop on the bus to the charming, sleepy neighbourhood of Belem and join the few locals and the hoards of tourists who’ve made the pilgrimage for the best custard tarts in the city. Pasteis de Belem has been making its famous pasteis de nata since 1837, and those years of experience show. Small, sweet, dangerously light bites of custard heaven with a delicate crisp case are the talk of the town and live up to the hype. Have a few, warm, with an espresso, then line up and get a box of six to take home – you’ll kick yourself later if you don’t.