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From flamenco to festivals, tapas to tiles

Seville is romantic but religious, delicious but dry. Go and sight-see in the day and then hit the bars, or a flamenco show in the evening – you won’t be able to resist hopping between them as the night’s crowds ebb and flow.

Sightsee Seville’s impressive monuments: the huge, squat cathedral with its minaret spire. See the impressive art collection at the Museo de Bellas Artes. Enjoy a café con leche and nibble tostada. Brightly-painted ceramic tiles, markets and creative types make the west bank district of Triana cool and colourful. Buy some Seville orange lip salve for a taste of the city when you come home.

Séville

Seville’s historical sights

Take in Seville at a leisurely pace. In the historic Santa Cruz district, you can’t miss the cathedral – the largest in the world and adorned with gold. Climb the bell tower, or giralda, a beautiful remnant from the original mosque. The star architectural attraction for many is the Alcazar. A Moorish-style palace, magnificent doesn’t quite cover the splendour and detail of its decoration.

Sample the famous tapas

Sample the famous tapas

Tapas is perfectly proportioned small plates. Sample it ‘til late at night – it’s not unusual in Spain to start eating at 10pm. Eat addictively crisp, deep fried morsels of fish and simple, delicious frittata and pastry treats with custard fillings. A tapas bar crawl won’t force you to travel far, they line the street on Calle Mateos Gago. Follow the Sevillanos – who eat late and visit the liveliest locales.

Feast your eyes on Flamenco.

Feast your eyes on Flamenco

Flamenco dancing is really misunderstood until you see it. Accompanied by guitar, voice and percussion, the dance has a reptilian abruptness and is utterly hypnotic. Seeing the real, sensual thing puts hours of television parodies and bolts of fancy dress ruffles to shame. Watch at the Museo de Baile Flamenco – from 7pm most nights there is an authentic hour long performance.

Celebrate festivities.

Celebrate festivities

Seville’s reputation as a festival city comes from its solemn observation of Easter and its intense celebration of spring. The Feria de Abril sends the locals into marquees to dance and the tourists wondering how to get in. The solemn Easter weekend processions cloak the locals in traditional penitential garb. The streets, too, take on a gravitas as crowds gather – a resonant time to make your own pilgrimage.

kids

Take the kids

Kids will appreciate Seville’s history when you tell them of galleons bringing hauls of gold up the Guadalquivir from the Americas. Visit the water park Isla Magica if a cool-down is needed but you could just as well spend siesta hours in the city’s cool aquarium or the park. Buy sweets from the nuns in the convents, through a charming hole in-the-wall system.

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