48 hours in Durban

Pack up a hat, flip-flops, sunblock and a toothbrush, and slip away. The British Airways flight leaves Cape Town International at 17:30; while at OR Tambo International you can board a 16:15 or 17:35 flight and smell the sea in under an hour. Or from 29th October 2018 catch the direct flight at 15:45 non-stop from London Heathrow to Durban’s International Airport, King Shaka International Airport.

Hop into your hire car and head to your hotel. Protea Hotel Edward is an Art Deco gem and conveniently situated right on Durban’s famed Golden Mile. Once you’ve checked in, head for the Lighthouse Bar at the Oyster Box and sip apple mint Cosmopolitans while the sun stains the sky behind the iconic lighthouse.

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No trip to Durban is complete without a swim in the warm Indian Ocean. Start your day with a quick dip at North Beach, followed by a breakfast of Cajun scrambled eggs (with chopped avocado and sweet peppers) on a lounger on the sand at Circus Circus Beach Café.

Hire wheels at The Skate Store at the North Beach Skatepark and cycle or skate the short distance (about five minutes) to Moses Mabhida Stadium. From here, ride the Skycar for sensational beach and city views before the crowds come to ride the Big Rush Big Swing – aka the world’s tallest swing. Then take a spin along the beautifully paved Golden Mile promenade making for uShaka Marine World. Stop along the way at Afro’s Chicken Shack in a sunshine yellow shipping container at Addington Beach for the best burger and tjips in town.

Burn off your burger at uShaka’s revamped Wet ’n’ Wild (the Body Tornado slide is a real scream), or swing out on the new Chimp & Zee adventure trail, with ziplines and aerial obstacle courses. If that’s all a bit high-octane for you, you can just chill on the uShaka Beach – fabulous and (best of all) free.

Make a beeline for the buzzing Glenwood neighbourhood, and the Community Art Centre at Phansi Museum, which boasts a spectacular collection of Zulu arts and crafts, from medicine gourds to glass beads, cleverly displayed and vividly explained by guides – but it’s imperative to book (call +27 (0)31 206 2889). Next, head for the KZNSA Gallery for great contemporary art. Scout the revamped gallery shop for home-grown pieces, from Musa Zincume’s Afro Bravo bags made from sweet wrappers, to Hlengi Dube’s beaded olive spoons and bracelets.

Amble down Helen Joseph (Davenport) Road and lunch at the latest arrival on the busy restaurant scene: Roxi Wardman’s Spoonful Eatery. The pink-haired winner of MasterChef SA 2014 serves gourmet comfort food with a twist – order a bacon and egg Bunny (a hollowed bun stuffed with bacon, egg, mushrooms, caramelised onions, cheddar and home-made chakalaka) or the Elvis: banana bread French toast with peanut butter, crispy bacon, toasted peanuts, dark chocolate shavings and crème fraîche.

Cross the Berea to the quiet courtyard of Market Restaurant and relax under the leopard trees beside the fountain with a tall glass of Poison City Brewing’s Bird lager. Market’s owner Andre Schubert and Graeme Bird’s craft beer was first brewed in a friend’s beach house. Stay for dinner and order the warm hoisin plum shredded duck salad with citrus segments, or dive into the flame-grilled fillet or white truffle spaghetti carbonara.

Head for the Point Waterfront – more specifically The Chairman. The city’s coolest bar and jazz lounge was created by KwaMashu-born architect Ndabo Langa in the ruined shell of a 100-year-old building. It serves hot live sounds (so have your dancing shoes ready) and snack platters of traditional Zulu delicacies such as goat with dumplings. Order a Kind of Blue cocktail (with Johnny Walker Blue, of course), and get in the groove.

Make for Durban’s buzzing new Station Drive precinct off Umgeni Road, where factory buildings have been converted for mixed creative use, with a scrumptiously eclectic mix of tenants. They don’t come more delicious than at its Morning Trade artisanal food market, held every Sunday morning. It’s a celebration of the city’s best fresh produce and food, from Athos Euripidou’s souvlaki (skewered lamb in pita with chilli and tahini) to Debbie Rich’s crunchy salad-stuffed vegan, gluten-free wraps in cones of compressed root veggies.