Los Angeles: A neighbourhood guide

Welcome to LA’s swankiest district, characterised by upscale boutiques, infamous hotels and that exclusive 90210 postcode.

First opened in 1955 by hotel magnate Conrad Hilton, The Beverly Hilton was destined to be a celebrity hotspot from the outset, with regular visitors including Elizabeth Taylor. It’s also hosted the glitzy Golden Globe Awards for more than five decades at its famous International Ballroom. Enjoy the star treatment at one of the hotel’s nearly 600 rooms and be sure to relax and refresh at the renowned Aqua Star Pool, Beverly Hill’s largest.

Head to the original Spago, the first outpost in celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck’s sprawling empire and a Michelin-starred temple to the modern Californian cuisine which Puck helped shape – see how by sampling one of his signature smoked salmon and crème fraîche thin-crust pizzas. Chef Scott Howard’s new Citizen is a refreshingly relaxed alternative to its somewhat stuffier neighbours around this part of town. Dawdle on the patio over crispy jidori chicken and raw oysters, or sidle up to the bar pick your favourite from mixologist Josh Goldman’s impressive, tiki-heavy cocktail list.

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With its skyline of squat, Art Deco-era buildings and soaring, mirrored skyscrapers, see where it all started in LA’s oldest neighbourhood.

You can’t miss it. The InterContinental Los Angeles Downtown is the tallest building west of Chicago. The lobby is on the 70^th floor, and a glass elevator whisks you up to the uppermost levels. As expected, there are magnificent views. It’s high up – and it’s also high tech. It only opened in 2018, so everything is slick and modern, plus there are Tesla charging points.

French Laundry alumnus Timothy Hollingsworth’s airy Otium sits in a custom-built home in the heart of Downtown’s new culture district. It’s a temple to his inventive cooking, including the brunch special – a crunchy funnel cake scattered with foie gras and strawberries. Offset the high-end treats with an evening at the saloon-style Cole’s, a century-old institution recently given a hipsterish makeover. It claims to be the site where the French dip sandwich – a baguette filled with thinly sliced roast beef served with a side of gravy – was invented.

Billionaire collector Eli Broad’s (rhymes with road) newly opened purpose-built museum showcases his world-class contemporary art collection. Entry is free, but to avoid the queues, try booking online a month or so in advance; otherwise, check the museum’s Twitter feed (@thebroadstandby) for current standby times. If lines are too long, venture to the Downtown Arts District, with its emerging art galleries, shops and cafés taking up residence in former factory buildings. Undoubtedly the star attraction here is Hauser Wirth & Schimmel. Straddling the divide between museum and commercial gallery, it’s housed in a vast former flourmill.

Though most movie production now takes place in the Valley, this is the area that gave the City of Angels its wings – and its Tinseltown nickname.

This waterfront area, originally a standalone resort town founded in the early 20th century, is now shorthand for LA’s obsession with the beach (and beach bodies).

The Shore Hotel is right by the famous Santa Monica Pier and right at the end of the famous Route 66. Stop here on a sunny avenue in front of the sea, and you might never want to leave.

Sushi maestro chef Nozawa’s Sugarfish is a classic Japanese joint, serving only traditional-style sushi (be gone California rolls!) accompanied by homemade soy and ponzu sauces. It’s affordable and walk-in only, so arrive early or expect a wait. Named after the ideal scent of a Barolo wine, Tar & Roses offers an impressive list of vintages accompanied by irresistible small plate snacks. But be warned: one serving of its caramelised bacon popcorn is never enough.

Channel your inner hard-bodied Hasselhoff or Pamela Anderson on the beach here, the backdrop to the classic Baywatch TV series. Packed on any sunny day, it’s worth detouring to see the original Muscle Beach on weekends, where the acrobatics on the outdoor bars is Olympic-worthy. Otherwise, work up a sweat on the Santa Monica Stairs, a 199-step uphill hike or take the plunge at Annenberg Community Beach House’s pool – the adults-only sunset swim on the second Friday of each month is a treat, right next to the water’s edge.