48 Hours in Los Angeles

Upon landing at LAX for 48 hours in Los Angeles, your immediate choice is, city or beach. For a day trip, it’s one or the other, because travel between them is to spend eons in inchworm traffic. (There’s a reason that beach-dwelling Westsiders don’t meet up with city friends in Silverlake very often, and it’s the drive). If it’s beach vibes you’re after, then head for Santa Monica, to the Palihouse West Hollywood or the beautiful Fairmont Miramar Hotel and Bungalows. Grab a late lunch at Cassia’s and head for the thrill of the hissing tide and sand between your toes.

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The beach set will be out on the sand first thing, of course, filling their lungs with sea air. Get a swim in, a stroll along the tideline to watch the early surfers, perhaps rent a bike from Santa Monica Beach Bike Rentals, or rollerblades from Sea Mist Rentals. Then head to Venice, Santa Monica’s hipper cousin just down the street, with its famous boardwalk and Abbott Kinney, once dubbed the coolest street in America. Have brunch at Salt – try the Breakfast In Bread with ‘over-easy’ eggs, smoked bacon, and tomato jam.

If you’re based further in the city, head to Grand Central Market for breakfast and book ahead for one of the LA Conservancy Walking Tours of Downtown. There’s no better way to get your bearings in this vibrant district. The Art Deco tour is fantastic for architecture lovers, as is the tour of Historic Downtown. Peel off at the end to explore some of the gallery scene. The Broad is a must-visit (so book in advance) and Moca is equally essential. Try Little Tokyo for lunch, where the incomparable Sushi Gen offers arguably the best sushi for the price in the city (just expect to wait).

Westsiders should take a drive down the PCH for a few miles with the music blaring. Bring water, sunscreen and some decent boots and you can go for a brief hike up the Paseo Miramar trail into the canyons. You’ll see stunning coastline views before rewarding yourself with a cocktail and oysters at Geoffrey’s. If all that sounds too strenuous, try the Getty Museum, where a little shuttle train climbs the hill to Richard Meier’s gleaming icon of minimalist architecture.

With the sun high in the sky, city folk can squeeze in some pool time this afternoon and maybe a little shopping too; Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills if you’re feeling flush or the boutiques of Silverlake for the hipper set such as Dream Collective. You can then get your hiking gear on for a trek up to the Hollywood sign. Head for Beechwood canyon and follow the trail. Arguably the best hike of all though, is to the Griffith Park Observatory in Los Feliz. You can head to the peak from here, watch the late afternoon sun sink into the horizon, and see exactly why John Fante called LA, “you pretty town”.