Today's independent-minded Europhile Ukraine is changing fast, with a nightlife
that would have the Communist old guard rolling in its grave. But, from the snow-topped
Carpathian Mountains of the west to the elegant coastal resorts of the
Crimean Riviera at its southernmost point, the country and its people remain
proudly protective of their Orthodox and Slavonic roots. Sample the bars and clubs of
cosmopolitan Kiev and Odessa, or find tranquil spots among the church
spires, tree-lined boulevards, and leafy squares of even the glitziest new city centres.
Background
The River Dnieper separates the Russian-speaking industrial
heartland of the East from the cosmopolitan cities of the Europhile
West. Here, the ancient city of Lviv still keeps its Austro-Hungarian
and Polish heritage. Further south, the rolling grasslands of the
steppe give way to the rugged cliffs and old aristocratic resorts of the
Crimea Peninsula.
Urban
If Kiev'sKievo-Pechersky Monastery is the spiritual heart of the country, then
bustling Kreshchatik Street is its commercial nucleus. The Potemkin
Steps will be recognisable to fans of Eisenstein's Battleship
Potemkin. But don't overlook Odessa's other
Classical, Renaissance and Art Nouveau architectural gems, including its Italian
Baroque Opera House. Lviv's Plosha Rynok (or Market Square)
marks the centre of its romantic medieval town, while Sevastopol's
secret history – it was a ‘closed city' until 1995
– will make it a magnet for the curious.
Rural
If you're the adventurous type then head for the resorts of the
Carpathian Mountains, particularly extreme-sports centre Bukovel.
Alternatively, discover the secrets of the pastoral Hutsul people among the
Carpathians' tiny mountain villages and craft markets. Further north, the
fortress city of Kamyanets-Podilsky is one of the earliest settlements of
Ancient Rus. On the Crimea's southernmost coast,
Yalta's classical villas and vibrant street life make it the perfect
summer holiday location.
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