Make no assumptions about post-Soviet Moscow. You'll be dazzled by the fairytale
domes of the Kremlin and Tverskaya Street's grandiose Soviet
architecture. If culture's your thing, you'll spend a long time
admiring the Pushkin Museum's world-class art. And you'll be
back, seduced by the buzz of Moscow's anything-goes nightlife, and old
Communist statues nestled between pre-revolutionary facades and glitzy New Russian
shopping malls.
Background
Buzzing main street Tverskaya runs north of the Kremlin to Mayakovskaya
Ploshad (or square) and the bars and cafes of bohemian
Patriarch's Ponds. Eastwards, the faded elegance of the
Kuznetsky Most district hides a jumble of restaurants, boutiques and book
shops. Beyond them, the old Kitai Gorod quarter houses 16th-century
nobles' palaces and some of Moscow's oldest buildings. Heading
west, the aristocratic mansions of Bolshaya Nikitskaya street give way to
leafy winding lanes around Stary Arbat street. Further south, the
Zamoskvorechye district (translating as the ‘land behind the
river') offers innumerable churches, stunning architecture and cobbled
streets.
First-time visit
The Kremlin's high point is the 19th-century Armoury: arrive
early to make sure you get a ticket. Visit Lenin's Mausoleum to see his
embalmed body before indulging in some people-watching from the cafe at famous
department store GUM on vast Red Square. Head past the Neoclassical
Bolshoi Theatre to see the former KGB headquarters, the Lubyanka,
and don't miss one of Stalin's skyscrapers nearby. Find Grand
Masters and Impressionist paintings at the Pushkin Museum, and the famous
dead buried in the Novodevichy Cemetery. Watch the sun go down over
Moscow's spires on a boat trip from extensive Gorky Park.
Return visit
Shop for souvenirs on Stary Arbat street before discovering the architectural
gems of its many tree-lined lanes. Get pleasantly lost among the bars, boutiques and
galleries around the upmarket Patriarch's Ponds area. Head south for
classic Russian art at the Tretyakov Gallery, and tour the statues to
discredited Communists in the Art Muzeon Sculpture Park. Catch world-class ballet at the
Bolshoi Theatre – or at the Kremlin Palace for a
fraction of the price. Round off your trip with old-world elegance and New Russian
luxury combined at Café Pushkin.
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