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Belgrade

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Overview

Visit gritty Belgrade (Beograd) on the River Danube, presided over by the imposing Kalemegdan, a 17th-century fortress set in parkland dotted with cafes. Wander around the city's prettiest area, Skadarlija, its cobbled streets lined with old-fashioned courtyard eateries. Get an overview of Serbian culture at the National Museum, then join the locals to party hard in Belgrade's vibrant dance clubs.

Background

Built at the confluence of the Rivers Danube and Sava, Belgrade is overlooked by Kalemegdan Citadel, where the city was founded. Walk along the pedestrianised main shopping street of Knez Mihailova, running south-east through Stari Grad (Old Town), built under the Austro-Hungarian empire. East from here, you'll find the best restaurants along the streets of the quaint Skadarlija district. If you're after nightlife, visit the large dance clubs in the centre, the open-air summer clubs below Kalemegdan, or even the river barges housing bars in the suburb of New Belgrade.

First-time visit

Begin exploring Belgrade where it all began, next to the River Danube, on the original Roman settlement, Singidunum. Now the hilltop Kalemegdan Citadel, it was rebuilt in the 18th century under Austro-Hungary. Inside, visit the Military Museum, with exhibits including missiles from the 1999 NATO attacks. In Stari Grad (Old Town), go to the National Museum, which traces Serbia's cultural development through the millennia, and the Ethnological Museum with its displays of regional folk costumes. Dine in the historic bohemian area of Skadarlija, which is filled with old-fashioned eateries.

Return visit

In central Belgrade, visit the Nikola Tesla Museum for demonstrations of his electricity inventions. In the suburb of New Belgrade, you can see 20th-century painting and sculpture displays at the Museum of Contemporary Art. Then go for drinks on one of the many barges moored on the River Danube. If dancing is your thing, try the lively clubs in the centre, or a summer club overlooking the river below Kalemegdan. Take a day trip to cultural city Novi Sad, nicknamed the Serbian Athens, and the nearby Fruška Gora National Park for hiking, wine-tasting and for visiting medieval Orthodox monasteries.

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