Overview

Kozmo Hotel Suites & Spa has been lucky enough to have attention lavished on it by two great teams of architects: first by Hungarian virtuoso Ray Rezső, who dreamt up this turreted, extravagantly decorative urban castle – far too pretty for its purpose as a telecommunications centre – in the early 20th century. Fast forward, and Spanish firm GCA Architects brushed up the building’s most baroque parts – a spectacular main staircase, storytelling reliefs, intricate ceiling decals – and moved in sleek custom furnishings, a burnished-gold bar and dramatic artwork to harmoniously bridge eras. And, with an indulgently equipped spa and other affluent touches it now seems far more comfortable in its ornate skin.

Highlights:

  • Sartorial flair

  • Spoiling spa

  • Caviar and champagne bar

Smith extra

Free 60-minute access to the spa (usually €40 a person) and a welcome drink on arrival

In the know

Also need to know:

Public areas are wheelchair-accessible, and there are dedicated rooms with adapted bathrooms.Kozmo has an eye for artwork, and of the notable works hung throughout, you’ll notice Spanish photographer Carlos Cánovas shots of Budapest’s sites, both famous and less so. They’re a vivid intro to the city in both a visual and literal sense, as the hotel has used them to map out a guided tour.

Packing tips:

Bring your hustling skills for the pool table, a cleansed palette for caviar tastings and a raffish attitude for late-night champagne sipping sessions.

Dress code:

Deck yourself out like an Alphonse Mucha muse and go as ornamental as Budapest’s grandest buildings.

Mr and Mrs Smith reviews

Every hotel featured is visited personally by members of our team, given the Smith seal of approval, and then anonymously reviewed. As soon as our reviewers have returned from this regally restored hotel in Budapest and unpacked their bottle of honey-hued Tokaji wine and spicy kolbász sausage, a full account of their haute-bohème city break will be with you. In the meantime, to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick peek inside Kozmo Hotel Suites & Spa in Hungary…

Let us put on our RP accent, because this is an important communiqué for lovers of lust-after stays. What was one of Budapest’s most important telecommunications centres from 1917 – and a remarkable late-eclectic building, to boot – has had the switchboards that served 5,200 users cleared out for the coolly contemporary bespoke furnishings, suites with terraces and dressing rooms, and commissioned artwork by the likes of Carlos Cánovas and Lluís Lleó that make Kozmo Hotel Suites & Spa so seductive. It’s a move that favours form over function (at least when it comes to outmoded ways of phoning somebody), but like most of the city’s grand structures, the past persists: the façade still bears its allegorical reliefs, the grand staircase has been restored along with intricate crown mouldings and antique windowframes, and the hotel’s name refers to ‘közlés’, the Hungarian word for ‘communications’. So, what is Kozmo trying to communicate to its guests these days, you might wonder. The answer: live lavishly, it seems, if the fine velvets, marbles and woods; gilded corners and elevated menus of the bistro; and dedicated caviar and champagne bar are anything to go by. It’s the Magyar Golden Era repackaged for modern travellers in a fairy-tale building close to important sites; and with service and style like this, they won’t need a switchboard operator to spread the word.

Accommodation details

Address:

Horváth Mihály tér 17, Budapest, 1082
Budapest
Hungary

Location:

1.7 mi / 2.7 km from city centre

General facilities

  • Spa
  • Valet parking
  • Exercise gym
  • Internet services
  • Room service

Dining information

Restaurant:

Decadence pervades the hotel’s dining and drinking offerings; after all, the main bistro has a gold bar as a centrepiece. But design that leans heavily into luxe minimalism ensures it doesn’t tip over into ostentation. In the bistro, more hifalutin picks such as goulash soup with homemade 'csipetke', celery and preserved lemon, foie gras spring rolls with parsnip puree and hazelnut or a goats cheese and fig salad with balsamic caviar are balanced out by homier dishes, such as pulled-pork sourdough sandwiches, smoked salmon bagel with creme fraiche and pickled red onion, and wienner schnitzel with potato salad. On the weekends there’s a bottomless champagne brunch. The dining rooms are both styled with verve: light fittings hang like Cornelia Parker masterpieces or are enshrouded in ghostly giant lampshades; engaging artworks and cabinets of objects enliven the dove-grey walls, and banquettes are upholstered in navy velvet or dark leather. 

Top Table:

Kozmo’s interior courtyard is more polished than the capital’s famous ruin bars, but when the trees and original redbrick architecture are lit up at night it conjures up plenty of old-school romance.

Room Service:

From 11.30am to 10.30pm, you can dine in-room on cheese and charcuterie sharing plates and a selection of comfort food: goulash, bagels, pastas, burgers, chicken supreme, chia and chocolate puddings. There’s a slimmer edit from 10.30pm till 6am.

Hotel Bar:

Take your drink in the bistro or the lounge where you can nurse it in between potting balls on the pool table. There’s an impressive selection of Hungarian (from a Lake Balaton sauvignon to a toothache-sweet Tokaji) and international wines, and a wide range of gin and tonics, from Búzavirág cornflower gin with orange and lime tonic, to lemony Malfy gin, to Bulldog London Dry with lychee and star anise tonic water.

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